lots of chop and precious little clean surf coupled with loads of work. Oh well, the 5’5″ waits patiently for its chance.
thats said this sure is a kick ass cover shot.
yep we’re back from the winter land of work and injury. The new 5″5″ has thrown me a few times but man is that thing a time machine, cant wait to get limber proper and have at it with that thing on a daily basis. I see see spinners and loads of 80′s moves coming. Jetty sandbar is in the process of building and grooming, Im hoping for good set up for late spring, opposite end has been good too with the lefts spinning off the newly dredged inlet. Today found the usual Jettyholic dawn patrol crew but I found myself alone at red sign with just a big bull dolphin to share waves with. Groomed waist to chest high sliders, perfect for sorting out the new baby bob.
we’re back! Lots of small surf getting sweeped or logged lately, key phrase small. Scored a fun New Years day inlet session with just me and a crowd of dolphins nailing huge schools of bait fish. Great start to 2013. New Mini board project for spring summer is in the works. Stay tuned
Hail The New Dawn First sunrise at Jetty 2013
Heres some of whats been happening during our internet hiatus. ps life w/o cable TV is better than you imagine. kill your TV before it kills you
Foster pup Alex saved from highway only dog Ive wanted to have in 35 years.
we are rucking photo courtesy of Terry Hayes of the London Diehards
hope everyones been scoring some of the good surf weve had the past few weeks. Personally im hating the late dawns but still geting out a bit here and there. Heres a cool lil carving it up pool video. I think Id get dizzy and puke after 1 ride from the crazy spiderweb paint job but none the less it sure looks like a really fun COLD type atmosphere!<p><a href=”http://vimeo.com/49540070″>La Kantera Pool Session</a> from <a href=”http://vimeo.com/karramarrobila”>Karramarrobila</a> on <a href=”http://vimeo.com”>Vimeo</a>.</p>
Flying back from NYC I knew it was time for some rubber and I was right. Froze my ass off till the sun popped out right before dark. Nice head high with some over head peaks breaking around red sign as the tide dropped it got better. Long lines and alot of face to work with, Trestles like on first peak and hollower on the inside over towards 41. Managed a few crappy IPhone shots from the looksee dune while I watched Tony, Brad and Michael score some good ones on the way in. Fun way to get the Manhattan outta your sinus! Rode the mini and had a blast.
41 inside breaking